High Demand Paint Coatings for Each Job
The right kind of coating is essential. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too early because poor quality primer and paint were used.
A dependable rule of thumb is to match the existing finish. If you are painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You may have all sorts of choices if the material is uncoated, but you still need to consider climate, maintenance, and strength to find the best covering for for the project.
Primers Are an Exciting Paint Product
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It decides how well the top surface is protected and how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters almost as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you will need to use a primer when you are coating a fresh or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more even. About the sole time you don't have to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coating manufactured by the same company. Labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to deal with reading the small print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you may ever need and you may want help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare areas. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top finish ends up flaking off much earlier than you would expect. While you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second layer of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below serves as an exemplory case of a project where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it an uniform base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand a second layer of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his jobs last. In the event that you live near to salt water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of wood trim it always feels harsh. That's because primer causes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here is a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the colour of the finish coat, you can actually speed up the painting process by reducing the amount of top coats needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it is also handy for areas like bare drywall.)
How to Prime Interior Surfaces and Ceilings
I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, including the laundry room and bathroom, that need a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the home, although there are excellent latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new structures have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top layer over latex primer.
Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to make use of. If the residence does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the walls and keeps water from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the answer to priming damp rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition areas with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the features of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also works as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You could warrant compatibility by utilizing a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, remember that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, especially when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are many primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top layer and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that there are perfectly good latex primers for just about any kind of top layer, but old habits are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps smooth over any sanding markings or roughness.
Improved Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the type and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the kind of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Frequently I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost water in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, including the high moisture common in bathrooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all around the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect almost all of the trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your project has many different variables
Primers For Exterior Applications
Even though I prefer latex paint for the outside, I still prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the home has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it is new), especially if I had access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always best to seal all over the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a moderate detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you might need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top coats. Any staining that occurs after that can usually be washed off with special lumber cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to adhere to. If the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially designed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals Applications
Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to remove, and may need more than simply thinner. Check with your paint store if you need to be certain a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.
A couple of primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had success using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
Much like any coating, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're applied, for good or for bad. A clean surface is particularly important when using an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while others recommend against using any sort of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
An old technique that still works well for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metallic material if combined at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It provides surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
Priming Solution For Masonry Applications
Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 90 days before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is basically coloured mortar and packed with lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also has a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's designed for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top layer, but it is important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for many masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the drying time of concrete. You may still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches skin!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, in particular when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. If you add water to acid it'll splash and burn up anything it contacts. And combine it in the correct ratio, usually 1:3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be a chore. You need to keep them well preserved and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete floors in really bad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I would recommend a concrete stain made by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My choice is the water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top finish like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors need to be repainted with a similar top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top layer is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top overcoat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I would add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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