Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right kind of coating is crucial. If you select the incorrect paint, it will not matter how much time and money you may spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too early because the incorrect primer and paint were used.
A dependable rule of thumb is to complement the existing layer of paint. If you are painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a myriad of choices if the surface is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider local climate, maintenance, and toughness to find the best covering for the work.
Amazing Way to Use Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the top surface is protected and how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters almost as much as which primers to utilize. Basically, you will need to use a primer if you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the only time you don't need to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top layer made by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even base for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coats end up flaking off much sooner than you'll expect. Even though you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of thinking that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in one coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure an even undercoat, but often one will do. The home pictured below is an exemplory case of a project where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it an uniform base for the finish coats. Some climates almost demand a second coating of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his work last. If you live near ocean water, I would recommend that you take into account doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might think that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed piece of wood trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer pushes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for the top. (Here's a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by minimizing the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
How to Prime Interior Wall Space and Ceilings
I recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, such as the laundry room and bath, that require a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are excellent latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bedrooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have adequate vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to use. If the house doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps moisture content from getting between the surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers can be the answer to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin stains, plus they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also acts as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it will maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You may warrant compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, particularly when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are plenty of primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coats will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that there are perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old patterns are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps smooth over any sanding markings or roughness.
Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the type of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the finish coats, and the type of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Frequently I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, including the high moisture common in restrooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all over the wood. When you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect the majority of the wood trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your project has many different variables
Primers For the Exterior
Even though I prefer latex paint for the outside, I still would prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good shape (which often means that it is new), particularly if I had access to the siding and trim before it goes on. It's always better to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the timber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a mild detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are pretty porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the surface, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special lumber cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. When the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially created hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When blended with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Primers For Metals Applications
Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, so the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to eliminate, and may need more than just thinner. Check with your paint store if you need to be sure a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.
You can find primers for each type of metal. Ferrous metals, made of iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow again under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had success using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized material. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
Much like any layer, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much by any means and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is especially important when you use an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using almost any solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.
A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metal material if combined at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be used to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.
No-Fuss Priming For Masonry
Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist moisture and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The cause of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 90 days before you can prime and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be applied on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is actually coloured mortar and packed with lime, is an excellent surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top overcoat, but it's important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for most masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only method to speed up the drying time of concrete. You can still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches pores and skin!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, specially when you blend the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it'll splash and burn up anything it contacts. And combine it in the proper ratio, usually 1 to 3. Make sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be considered a chore. It's best to keep them well maintained and recoat them regularly, before they need to be completely redone. Concrete surfaces in really sad shape should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away that makes prepping masonry somewhat easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good condition, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new cement floors, I recommend a concrete stain manufactured by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My choice is water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading much better than a top coating like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top coat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top overcoat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.
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